Madhugiri (Tumakuru district): Madhugiri Betta, in the headquarters of Madhugiri Taluk in Tumakuru district, is a sought-after destination for trekkers, especially adventure- and nature-loving youngsters, though many others also try to climb it as far as possible.
Elephant trunk-shaped hill: Madhugiri Betta, renowned as the continent's second-largest single-rock monolithic hill, resembles the trunk of a sleeping tusker. The fort ruins stand at an elevation of 3,930 feet (about 1,200 metres) above sea level. On the other hand, Savandurga Hill, located in the Savandurga forest region, with a height of 4,022 feet, or about 1,226 metres above mean sea level, is considered Asia's largest monolithic hill.
Under the influence of local and Ganga dynasties: According to the available history, Madhugiri Betta dates back to the early fortifications of local and Ganga dynasties. It is also attributed to the Jains that they had a strong presence in the region then.
Established by Raja Hire Gowda: As per the inscriptions on the site, it was during the tenure of Raja Hire Gowda, also spelt Raja Heera Gowda, a local chieftain and feudal ruler of the Vijayanagara Empire regime, that the initial mud-and-stone fort came into being. The Gowda chieftains are said to have ruled the surrounding region from this stronghold, while the Vijayanagara Empire thrived from the 15th to the 17th centuries.
Captured by the Mysuru Kingdom: Devaraja, the chief military commander of the Mysuru royal dynasty, is said to have captured the fort in 1678.
A critical military bastion: However, the fortification took on new dimensions under Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan of the Mysuru rule. Reinforcing the structure, adding stronger granite walls, circular granaries, watchtowers, and secret gateways paved the way for making it an important military base in the area.
British takeover: Control of the fort by several local chieftains and different dynasties ultimately came to an end with the British seizing it after the Third Anglo-Mysore War in 1791. Later, the fort turned out to be a point of resistance and local significance during periods of regional conflict and the broader Indian independence movement.
Three defensive gateways! Madhugiri Betta Fort features a series of three strong defensive gateways, including Antaralada Bagilu, Diddi Bagilu (a hidden escape route), and the Mysuru Gate, along with steep concentric walls climbing the rock. On top of the peak, and if you are lucky enough to manage to reach it, the ruins of Gopalkrishna Temple, alongside ancient water-harvesting rock-cut cisterns like Bheemana Dhone and Navilu Dhone, are visible.
No entry; parking fees: Unlike usual tourist destinations, no entry or parking fees are charged. However, you need to register your Aadhaar card number with the security gentleman of the Archaeological Department, and you are not checked for your belongings, nor is there any display board restricting the carrying of prohibited items, plastic bottles, and other goods.
Simians keep accosting! Since nothing is available, including water, beverages, or food, throughout the uphill route, you need to carry all of them to avoid suffocating in the absence of the same. To some extent, whenever you wish to drink water or eat something, you need to be extra careful, as a group of monkeys keep accosting you!
No maintenance anywhere: The sad part of Madhugiri Betta is that, despite a dilapidated board of the Archaeological Department proclaiming it to be a protected area, nowhere can you find traces of the same. But in one place, there are absolutely no dustbins; only trash of all kinds can be seen along the route!
Hazardous path, in places: To start with, there is a short stretch, maybe a couple of hundred metres, of an even path. That's only the beginning, and also the end of the same in no time. Soon after, and within a short span, you start experiencing the uphill task accompanied by the altitude-related woes. Now and then you come across metal railings for the much-needed support to lean on, and all of a sudden they suddenly start going missing, although there are marks of the same in places.
Nothing to hold on! Once you manage to brave all such bottlenecks, taking rest in between, gulping water, munching, with the illusion of almost having made it, the real big challenge begins. The ruins of the fort appear as if they are within a manageable distance, literally like a mirage. It is only when you try to climb further that it turns out to be a Herculean task in the absence of any pathway, steps, railings, or any other kind of support facility!
Need for proper steps, railings: Among our team of four, only Ramanath Shenoy, a senior journalist, could successfully reach the topmost point without any hassles, while M Venkatesh, another senior journalist and myself had to be content with coming closer, but not really making it. Ravish B.V., a former staff member of the Forest Department and KSDL, didn't prefer to take a risk as his oxygen level started dipping after a stage.
A memorable experience: On the whole, the visit to Madhugiri Betta turned out to be a challenging exercise and a memorable experience for all the sexagenarians.
-Manohar Yadavatti.
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