Srisailam: A sought after Jyotirlinga, and Shakti Peetha

Srisailam: Srisailam Mallikarjun Temple is a household name among the people of North Karnataka for its ancient background and serene atmosphere, giving a memorable experience to visitors. People from North Karnataka have visited this temple for generations, with some making it a regular practice once a year, especially during Shivaratri, Ugadi, and Kartik festivals. Srisailam, in addition to being a Jyotirlinga shrine, is also a Shakti Peetha because of the presence of Goddess Bhramarambha Devi. Among all the 12 Jyotirlingas, Srisailam is the only sought-after pilgrimage centre to boast of a Jyotirlinga and Shakti Peetha.

Relocation to be close to son: The legend claims that during an impromptu contest to go around the universe, Ganesh did so by encircling his parents, while Kartikeya, the younger brother, lost the same, leaving Mount Kailash in anger to settle down on the Srisailam hills. It was at this juncture that Shiva and Parvati took the form of a luminous Jyotirlinga named Mallikarjuna in order to stay close to their son.

Pouring milk on the Shivalinga: Another legend claims that a cow used to do Dugdha Abhisheka by showering her milk on a Shivalinga tangled in Jasmine creepers, which was noticed by Chandravathi, a princess. It is also claimed that it was Princess Chandravathi who built the original shrine. Mallika is also attributed to represent Parvati, and Arjuna to represent Shiva. 

Historical references of the 2nd century: According to the pages of history, the earliest recorded historical references go back to the 2nd century, while the Mahabharata epic refers to Srisailam as Sri Parvata.

Patronised by royal dynasties: Over a period of time, multiple royal dynasties, including the Ikshvakus, Pallavas, Western Chalukyas, Kakatiyas, and the Vijayanagar Empire, patronised the temple in a variety of ways. Chhatrapati Shivaji is said to have built the Northern Gopuram in 1667. The temple is full of typical Dravidian architecture with fortified stone walls and intricate carvings. 

Padyatra for hundreds of miles: Pilgrims from the North Karnataka region have a practice of walking all along for hundreds of miles to reach Srisailam during the holy Shravan month. In the good old days, peasants had a peculiar practice of doing the pilgrimages in bullock carts. In the changed circumstances and affordability these days, there will be traffic snarls throughout the route, and finding a parking slot will be another challenge during festivals!

Free meals en route: No one knows how the gesture of feeding the walking disciples for free began, but surprisingly it continues to remain to date, irrespective of drought or flood situations. Special tents are erected en route to Srisailam to feed the tired devotees, without discriminating against them based on caste, sub-caste, or religion!

Walking amidst dense forests: Apart from walking on the regular motorable roads, there is also a special path for the hardcore devotees ready to make it through the dense Nallamalla forest region. This route from Atmakur is permitted only during Maha Shivaratri and Ugadi festivals. Due to the lack of any facilities, people need to carry their own food, water, and other essential requirements. Mahantesh Hiremath, a senior journalist, has undertaken this trip multiple times and exclaims: Fellow travellers offer to give you everything, including food, but not water! Water is considered a treasure.

One of the five Pancha Peethas: Srisailam is one of the five Pancha Peethas of the Veerashaiva-Lingayat religion, along with Rambhapuri in Balehonnur, Chikkamagalur district, Ujjaini in Vijayanagar district, Kedara in Kedarnath, Uttarakhand, and Kashi Peethas in Varanasi, in Uttar Pradesh.

A sought-after destination: Just a few decades back, a journey to Srisailam meant experiencing a challenging adventure, thanks to the secluded path through the ghat sections of Nallamalla forest terrains in the Nandyal district of Andhra Pradesh. A pilgrimage tour of Srisailam, hitherto meant to be for days, weeks, or months depending upon the mode of transport. Earlier, people also rejoiced in sharing their encounters with wild animals. However, things have changed to a large extent these days, making the visit more comfortable, swift, and fast.

Multiple tourist spots: In the changed scenario, Srisailam has also emerged as a tourist destination for multiple reasons. In yesteryears, a visit meant only visiting Srisailam and returning the same way backwards, but not now. Pathalaganga, Akka Mahadevi Caves, Shikareshwara Temple, and Siddi Ramappa Kolanu waterfalls have emerged as must-visit spots.

Largest tiger reserve in the country: The Srisailam Dam, built over the mighty Krishna River, and Nagarjunsagar-Srisailam Tiger Reserve, one of the largest tiger reserves, spread over an area of 3,500 square kilometres, attract visitors of a different kind. As a natural habitat of diverse species of flora and fauna, the lush green Nallamalla forest range has turned out to be a popular trekking spot for exploration and research, while Srisailam acts as a base camp!

Ropeway to Pathalaganga and boat to Akka Mahadevi Caves: Just a few decades back, climbing down the unscientific steps to reach Pathalaganga used to turn out to be a Herculean task for children, women, and senior citizens. These days, you have the advantage of a ropeway to descend and ascend, and a one-hour boat ride takes you to the Akka Mahadevi Caves. Many decades ago, our father, late R S Yadavatti, along with Bheemappa Dhulappanavar, his young friend from Gulganjikoppa, Dharwad, happened to go to Srisailam. They undertook the risk of visiting the Akka Mahadevi Caves in a country boat. Although they could make it happen, the chances of returning turned out to be remote, as dusk had already made its way by then. Left with no option, they spent the whole night without food or water, burning the dry leaves and dried branches of trees in order to ensure safety from the wild beasts!

More commercialised place: The earlier delight of fewer crowds, namesake amenities, and woes of transport modes has been engulfed by total commercialisation of the area, even well before the vicinity of the pilgrimage centre. Hotels and eateries galore all along the way, just like the habitation, making you wonder whether you are visiting the shrine or some other township.

Hoax of online darshan: Chandrababu Naidu, during his first two tenures as Chief Minister of undivided Andhra Pradesh, laid the foundation and made a name for developing Hyderabad as a software hub competing with Bengaluru, dubbed the Indian Silicon Valley. But all these tall claims appear hollow when you try to book darshan online, as the portal is always found to be non-functional. Even emails to the official mail IDs of the Executive Officer, found on the official website, kept bouncing repeatedly. The online WhatsApp help desk kiosk didn't make any sense, as there was no one to attend, and inquiries with the available staff revealed that no one turns up there!

Get coaxed and have darshan: At the same time, it doesn't mean that online darshan isn't possible, provided you are in the mood to let go of some money. An attempt was made through a philanthropist for accommodation, and through him, a connection with a seer's secretary for hurried darshan. He got it done in no time on his system for an equal amount of money into his pocket! This is the state of affairs in a reverred Jyotirlinga and Shakti Peetha!

-Manohar Yadavatti.