Mahanandi (Nandyal district), Andhra Pradesh: Mahanandi is another sought-after pilgrimage centre in Nandyal district, Andhra Pradesh, commonly visited by Shaivaites. It is also part of the temple run circuit, along with Srisailam and Rachyoti.
Nine Nandi shrines: By and large, devotees of Shiva prefer to pay obeisance to the main Nandi temple in Mahanandi, although there are eight other shrines of Nandi within a distance of 15 kilometres. Mahanandi is just one of the Nava Nandis, also known as Nava Nandulu. These nine temples are Mahanandi, Sivanandi, Vinayakanandi, Somanandi, Prathamanandi, Garudanandi, Suryanandi, Krishnanandi (also called Vishnunandi) and Naganandi.
1,500-year-old ancient stone marvel: The Mahanandiswara Swamy Temple in Mahanandi is an important pilgrimage centre, especially for the devotees of Shiva. This ancient temple dates back over 1,500 years. The inscriptions on 10th-century tablets speak of the temple being repaired and rebuilt several times.
Fresh water pools, an attraction: The temple is known for its fresh water pools, colloquially known as Kalyani or Pushkarni. The architecture of the temple shows the strong presence of the Chalukyan Kings in this region. The pools of the temple are also an exemplary example of the skill sets of the Vishwakarmas, the traditional craftsmen of temple architecture.
Original structure built by Badami Chalukyas: According to the pages of history, the original structure was built by the Badami Chalukyas in the 7th century, while several additions were made in the 10th and 15th centuries. The gopuram over the main sanctum was built in the Badami Chalukyan style of architecture, and other structures in the temple are in Vijayanagara style. According to the legend, the local kings known as Nandas ruled here in the 10th century CE and built a series of temples and worshipped their ancestral deity, the Nandi, hence the name Mahanandi.
The main temple is surrounded by three pools: Two small pools at the entrance and one large pool inside the temple itself. This holy tank is 60 square feet, with an outdoor pavilion called a mandapa in the centre. The inlets and outlets of the tank are arranged so that the depth of the water is constantly kept at five feet, thus enabling pilgrims to bathe in the holy waters. Bathing in the big pool inside is prohibited after 5PM every day.
One can offer prayers and touch the Shiva Linga: A peculiarity of the water source is that it has a constant flow irrespective of the change of seasons. The water source originates at the Garbhagruha just below the Swayambhu Linga. One can touch the water near the Shiva Linga. The devotees can offer prayers and touch the Shiva Linga. This is unusual because traditionally at temples, the main deity is kept away from the touch of the devotees.
Crystalline and healing qualities: The water is famous for its crystalline and healing qualities and is also tepid. The outgoing water irrigates 2,000 acres of fertile land surrounding the village. The surrounding areas are under cultivation with rice fields, fruit, vegetable and flower gardens. The temple is well known for the Koneru. The water during the winter season will be very hot, and vice versa during the summer. During the early mornings, the water is tepid, and it cools gradually with the rise in temperature.
Amazing sculpture of Goddess Saraswati: Inside the sanctum sanctorm of the main temple gopuram is a mind-boggling hanging stone sculpture of Goddess Saraswati, and it is very difficult to imagine the efforts of the sculptors in carving the same. Outside the temple, people were allowed to feed the cows.
APTDC Mahanandi Haritha Hotels' sordid state of affairs: As soon as we entered the vicinity of Mahanandi village, any number of people tried to stop the vehicle, offering hotel rooms. Maybe because it was the off-season, with less number of visitors, almost 11 people accosted us until we reached the temple. Having checked on the website, and with the illusion that the Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC) hotel could be on par with the Mayura hotels of Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation(KSTDC), we checked into the same.
A pathetic upkeep: Initially, it was very difficult to believe the rock-bottom tariff in a state government public sector group of hotels. For a Non-AC room of five beds, the rent was Rs 900/-, while another Non-AC room with two beds was Rs 650! It was only after we moved in that the pathetic plight of the room conditions started unfolding. The beds, bedsheets, and blankets weren't worth even an average lodge in the countryside.
Water heaters for bathing water: When we inquired about the availability of hot water for bathing early in the morning, we were given insulated wire water heater sets! Most of the electric plug points were non-functional, and the fans were making more noise than required. The bathrooms had no hooks to place your towel or clothes. Only the exhaust fan was doing its duty properly, with an irritating sound. We were left with no option but to blame ourselves for preferring the APSTDC Mahanandi Haritha Hotels, much to the chagrin of the pestering hotel room brokers!
-Manohar Yadavatti
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